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May 2001

21 May

 

 

On 3 November, after a night of close calls with drug dealers and an early morning encounter with a mama black bear, I was on the road by the time the sun was barely showing above the horizon. 

 

I walked out on the highway and started heading west, Klondike taking point.  Within moments I was standing on a small bridge, where I stopped to enjoy the scene.  Mist was still rolling across the bayou, and the sun was glistening gold off the water as it snaked through a glade and out to the ocean.

 

As I stood there looking out onto the peace and calm, I wondered how many of the drivers passing me actually noticed the beauty around them: the bayou water slowly swirling on its way to the ocean; blades of sawgrass gently swaying in the lazy current; a golden sun blazing through the mist that wafted across the glade -- everything so bright, almost overexposed, almost dream-like.  I remembered how it had been so easy for me to get caught up in my daily life, and forget to simply stop sometimes, and just . . . be.

 

Now I was just "being" and the world rushed on around me.  I didn't have to worry about meeting with a client, I didn't have to worry about deadlines.  I didn't have to rush off to a job I hated.  All I had to do was walk, and survive another day on the road.

 

And I still couldn't believe that I was finally "on the road," after years of planning and dreaming.

I was ready to get into East Point and get settled in a campground.  "Ok, Klondikester!  Let's be on our way!" I said, and she instantly headed down the road in the right direction, her own pack gently rocking back and forth with her easy stride.  Such a smart dog, she was.

 

I figured we had made it about seven miles the day before, and if I kept pushing, we should make it into East Point sometime around noon.  Time enough to find a campground, wash some clothes, make that ominous phone call, and settle in and relax for a day or two. 

 

The morning was glorious.  Most of the road wound along the shoreline.  On my left, pelicans soared and swooped and gracefully crashed headlong into the water as they hunted breakfast in the shallow waters of the tidal flats.  On my right was a lot of undeveloped land, with a few old, small homes nestled among pine trees and palm trees and palmetto bushes.

 

At one point the road curved sharply to the right as it followed the shore.  From the curve, out across the water several miles away, poking out from pine and palm trees, I could see what looked to be the beginning of a town – East Point, I assumed. 

 

The area I was passing through was so peaceful and serene.  But there was a large sign on the corner, clamoring out of the trees, proclaiming, "BUY NOW!  Lots Still Available!  Development to begin SOON!  ONLY 150 units – ACT FAST!"

 

It was so strange, but as I read the sign, some part of me deep inside began to ache.  Never before had I felt that way when faced with the specter of development.  As the words sank in, I slowly realized that in a few months, none of what I was looking at, none of the beauty and wildness, none of the sand and trees, would be there anymore.  If I walked this road again, even in only six months, buildings and signs and side streets would be were I know walked.

 

150 UNITS!  MY GOD!  WHERE?  There would be no room left for anything but buildings and displaced birds!

 

It was now about 10:30 and the sun was starting to make the sweat role off of me.  Of course, in the mornings, I never felt as bad as the heat usually made me look -- in the afternoons, the reverse was usually true.  According to my map, East Point was about five miles away — not quite two hours' walking.

 

About that time I heard a car pull off the road and role up behind me.  As it got closer I turned to find a white sedan with four middle-aged ladies in it.  It pulled up beside us and the driver, in a flowery "Sunday" dress, giggled out her window, "Oh, don't worry, I won't run you over."  Everyone else in her car giggled, too.

 

I felt hardly reassured as her tires crunched past my toes.  Even K's expression was "HEY, I'M WALKING HERE!  BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU DRIVE THAT DARN THING!  I'VE GOT TEN MORE TOES THAN YOU DO!" as she back-stepped and swirled around on her leash.

 

"You look pretty hot," the Sunday Dress Lady said, and her friends giggled again, regarding me with a mild, suburban curiosity from behind their windows.  I didn't know whether to feel like an unexpected male guest at a tea party — or a bug.

 

"It's not too bad, yet," I answered politely, wondering what she was leading up to.  Once I got a pace going, I didn't like to stop in the middle of the road.  But, a stranger's generosity was always welcome.  Over the last month, so many folks had pulled off the road, or waited in parking lots for me to pass, to hand me crackers and fruit, or bottles of water, or a can of Alpo for K and a cold soda for me.  Through this kindness I was slowly being reminded that there were a lot of generous, caring people in this country, who still knew how to give the right way -- without expectation of anything in return.  Over the years, I had come to be quite cynical about such things.  Friendship and kindness, for whatever reasons, always seemed to come with a price tag.

 

"Well," she said, getting right to her point, "when you take a break, this will help quench your soul."  And she shoved a piece of paper in my hand, waved, giggled with the rest of her friends, and left me standing in a cloud of dust, which instantly started to settle in my open mouth.

 

I looked at my hand and found what I expected: a pamphlet telling me that eternal salvation was mine, all I had to do was admit that I was a no good lowly worm and ask for forgiveness.  Well, that's not exactly what it said, but it's close.  I chuckled as I folded the paper and put it in my side pocket to dispose of properly, later.  Maybe I would use it to help start the fire I hoped to have that evening.

 

I stood there watching the car disappear around the bend, Klondike blinking and shaking herself as the dust settled.  Then I took a swig from my water tube, swished it around and spit out the muddy film and grit that had formed in my mouth.  At least the fellow on Highway 27 had offered K and I water and a snack while making sure that we had been "saved."  From whom? though, I

wondered.

 

For many years I have pondered the ramifications of unconditional love.  There had been a low tolerance for prejudice in my family: all people, no matter what color, deserved the same treatment and respect.  Oddly, though, there was a lot of judgement, and in that I came to discover what one might call "the white man's point of view."  A subtle arrogance -- that barely

perceptible attitude that says, "Well, if they were more like us, they wouldn't have the problems they are having."

 

As I walked, thinking about the Sunday Dress Lady, I found myself pondering unconditional love again; such a deep and multifaceted concept.  For years I have worked hard to learn how to move beyond my own shortcomings that ultimately leads to judging others.  Now I was trying to move beyond my growing irritation at her. 

 

It wasn't so much the way she had acted toward me.  I have no qualms about telling someone to please mind their own business — that is, if they don't leave me standing in a whirl of dust before I can speak.  What bothered me was what about the people in distant lands who don't know how to see through the hypocrisy and tell the Sunday Dress Ladies (and men) to mind their own business, thank you.

 

For me, I guess, it is hard to believe that people like that still exist in the year 2000.  With all the advancements the world has made, in some ways we are still no different than we were thousands of years ago.  That is not only saddening, it is inexcusable.  It is the Sunday Dress Ladies and their beliefs that have caused untold pain, death and destruction for how many millennia?  And it still continues today, in one form or another.

 

The more I have come to know Robert Tree Cody, his family and other Native Americans.  The more I hear the stories about how they were physically beaten by supposed upstanding, church going, teachers for speaking their own language -- a language that has been around longer than English. The more I learn that this has taken place in my lifetime, not a hundred years ago, but in the 39 years that I have walked this Earth.  The more that I realize that this abuse was taking place at the same reservation schools, at the same times, that my family performed at them, the more I find myself struggling with the concept of unconditional love for the purveyors of such atrocities.

 

Worse yet, how can they continue to force their beliefs on others when they can't even agree on their beliefs themselves?

 

I went to one church before my family started touring the country doing our acrobatic health and fitness programs in schools.  From the time I was six, till I was 12, we were on the road performing.  Often, we were invited to attend Sunday worship — the denominations varied greatly.  And I remember it didn't take long for me to become confused about three things: If the base religion was Christianity, how come didn't any of the churches agree with each other?  How could they preach about love, and yet attack each other in the mean and spiteful ways they did?  And since none of them could agree on anything, then who was "right"?  

 

Since then, and after a year of Confirmation class when I was 13, and countless sermons and Wednesday night Bible studies spread over nearly 20 years, my questions, still, go unanswered.

 

And I am left with an incontrovertible conclusion: one person has no right to tell another what to believe. 

 

Period.

 

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